Signing Off, Saying Thank You and giving Statistics

All 250 years of us have completed the 200 miles.
It was a  good journey: challenging and enjoyable
Some of us had wobbly moments
Others strode the road with ease
But we are all in one piece
Having seen much of England's green and pleasant land
And experienced the variable English weather-
We could not have done it
Without all your support:
Thank you for sponsoring us,
Thank you for encouraging us,
Thank you for praying for us.
We have emerged from it all
Well and blister-free


But what is more important is that about £13000 has been raised for the GRCT
Think how many children that can feed!
It helped us on the last day particularly  to remember that the walking was earning £1000 per day for a great cause.

 

 
And so some final statistics:

• Falls : Andrew =2, Pat=2, Penny=2, Jenny=0
• Injuries and/or blisters(not counting bruises)= 0
• Steps (according to Jen's pedometer)=430,392
• Miles = 201 miles
• Time on the road = 89 hours
• Money Raised thus far: £13000 approx.

Thank you for reading our blog. Please keep in touch via our website: www.grct.co.uk
Warm Regards
Penny (and Pat and Andrew and Jenny)

Day 13: Glaisdale to Robin Hoods Bay

After spending the night in a 17th century farmhouse we set off in rain on the last long leg of our journey. Wetter than wet we were "sodden" according to Jenny, by the time we had our lunch. We bought provisions in the Post Office/co-op in Grosmont and took shelter in a hermitage in Little Beck wood to eat them. This Hermitage is a boulder hollowed out to form a small cave with 1790 etched above the entrance. It was cold and dark within but that was far better than being cold and rained upon! Little Beck woods must be very pretty in better weather but their beauty was lost upon us as we contended with muddy paths .
And before  the path through the woods we had had a steep 700ft climb up to Sleights Moor where we had mist once more and were sadly denied the famous view of Whitby Abbey.  We had to traverse 2 more moors during the walk both of which were extremely boggy; we all sunk in ankle-deep and Jen complained of " bog filled boots."
As if the bog was not enough to cope with, we had mud and mud and more mud. Even on the cliff path along the coast to Robin Hood's Bay.
But what a delight to see the first signpost for Robin Hood's Bay and eventually to see it in the distance.
The adventures have been worthwhile and we are thrilled and proud to have walked the 200 miles and to have arrived all in one piece. Lovely too to meet others from the journey also celebrating their achievement. We have dipped our feet in the North sea and thrown in our pebbles.

Tired but well pleased, we enjoyed a dinner of freshly caught fish in The Boathouse and tomorrow will head back home by rail from Scarborough.

Thank you to all of you for your encouragement ,support and sponsorship, all of which we much appreciate.
Know that your money will be well spent to feed children in South Africa. A big thank you!

  

Day 12 : Clay Bank Top to Glaisdale

Our kind BandB host dropped us off at Clay Bank Top at 8.45 and we started the day with a steep climb to the top of Urra Moor- only 20 minutes of uphill. After that it was hours of walking on a wide track over the moors, this time NOT in the rain. It was cool and overcast but the views began to emerge through the light mist and the heather looked wonderful. We disturbed many red grouse on our way and they would suddenly rise up from the heather making their interesting cackling call. The silence was also punctuated by the bleating of the black faced sheep partially hidden in the heather. Unlike yesterday it was head-up stuff not head-down trudging through the wet.
At noon we arrived at Lion Inn , the 4th highest inn in Britain where we had a welcome sandwich having completed 9 miles at that stage. The Newly Weds , Paul and Nina, walked with us some of the way and we enjoyed chatting to them.
In the afternoon the sun came out and we seemed to be the only people on the moors. What a great delight to see the splendid views today! And great excitement to catch sight of the North Sea. The end is in sight. We are now in  an old farmhouse in Glaisdale , very quaint and comfortable and will WALK to the pub tonight for a meal. We understand it's the only pub in these parts so it will be full of Coast to Coasters. Our legs are tired probably because of the cumulative effect of two 20 milers and quite lengthy stretches on the road. Only one day to go -  nearly there.

some scenes on the way

Posing among the sheep, the lovely river Swale,  and P and P beside the monument to Henry Jenkins who is said to have lived from 1500 to 1669 in Bolton on Swale.

Day 11 : Oaktree Hill to Clay Bank Top

We started off in good spirits having enjoyed farmhouse hospitality and feeling happy because  of the sunshine. The 7 miles to Ingoldby Cross were very pleasant including tracks and quiet back roads through farmland as well as crossing a railway line  and a dash across the 4 lanes of the busy A19. We met a dear old farmer fixing a fence who told us his name was"Bill during the week and William on Sundays." He thought we were too young to be retired. We understood why ,when we heard that he was  77 years old and got up at 4am every morning to see to the milking of 160 cows! I include a Photo of Bill Stockdale. We have found the Yorkshire people so kind and friendly. Refreshments are often left out for walkers with an honesty box. Helpful in that there are no village stores in these parts.  Indeed  a delivery man seeing us walking told us twice that we mustn't miss the flapjack at" t' bank" before we climb up into the Cleveland hills. We didn't miss it and in the photo you can see Andrew enjoying  his purchase.

We then had a steep climb through Arncliffe Wood into the Cleveland Hills. This was but the first climb of many. Also at noon the weather changed and rain set in and it was not an easy 12 miles from then on. Disappointing ,as the views from the top of the moors ( which are reputed to have the world's largest expanse of heather) are said to be exceptional. Stedman suggests that this day can be very pleasant or " a miserable, muddy, rain-soaked trudge with all views obscured by a bone-chilling mist." Sadly that was our experience . I found the ascents and descents particularly tricky in the wet ,on slippery stones, and at one stage lost the will to continue but given the alternative of death from hyperthermia in the heather, I managed with Pat's help to soldier on. Jen and Andrew  led the party briskly at a good pace, but also considered it to be a tough day. One had no sooner conquered one peak, when another needed to be tackled.

The good news is that our BandB host collected us at Clay Bank Top  and we have since perked up having had baths and showers and a good meal in The Black Swan.  We have climbed 3000 ft today and have been on the road for about 9 hours, including stops for food and water and map- reading. And tomorrow is another 20 mile day but with fewer inclines and the promise of better weather!

Only 2 days to go to Robin Hoods bay!

Day 10 : Richmond to Oaktree Hill (Lovesome Hill Farm BandB)

We all enjoyed our stay in Richmond and had a delicious meal at the Rustique restaurant. Strange not to be surrounded by fellow Coast to Coasters! Our walk today was a 16 miler over a variety of paths and under an overcast sky. Andrew set a cracking pace and because there were no hills we all walked very briskly. We wanted to arrive before the rain. Unfortunately we arrived long before the BandB owner, but she had left the bunkhouse open so we were able to take shelter and make a welcome cup of tea  . It was a bit cold in there but eventually our longings for HOT water were realised when she arrived and showed us to our rooms . She is cooking for us tonight- lamb casserole (lamb from the farm) Apologies for the latter, Kath!
Leaving Richmond we walked alongside the river Swale for several miles through ferns and a heavily wooded area. We wore gaiters having been warned by Stedman ( the guidebook) about " slithering around over clammy, saturnine slush!" Jenny remarked that "the potential for mud was there"
However it was  more than manageable. We encountered mud much later when taking a shortcut to this farm through fields and ditches and all have appallingly dirty boots , which are not allowed in the house.
We had a long, tedious stretch of walking on a narrow minor road where almost the only traffic was a dusty, red Royal Mail van which beetled past us in both directions at different times.
Dreading crossing the A1 I was relieved that we went under it in a muddy tunnel to Catterick Bridge. Catterick is built on the site of a Roman garrison and town called Cataractinium dating from 80 AD to the 4th century. Interesting that it is still the base of an army camp today.  We didn't linger there but called in to the churchyard of St Mary's in Bolton on Swale to see the monument to Henry Jenkins who was thought to be 169 years old when he died; his longevity not his unremarkable life is his claim to fame. Rather quaintly the church has bottles of water and soft drinks available for walkers with an honesty box to hand. No village stores or co-ops in these parts. We had with us a somewhat unsatisfactory packed lunch so didn't go hungry as we huddled together on a convenient bench to picnic - grumbling a bit about what we paid the Band B owner for our provisions.

The rest of the walk was characterised by " unexceptional field tramping " in Stedman's words. True..

But we have a long up and down day ahead of us so this flat stretch Jen and I quite welcomed.
The good news is that there was excellent signposting today as we were no longer in any national park.

Fellow Travellers

.We hope you enjoy these pics of Maureen,the lone Australian adventurer, Man and Dog and  The Newly Weds. They are some of our fellow travellers.

Day 9 : Reeth to Richmond

We left the pretty village of Reeth in lovely sunshine having had much merriment over our meal the night before. There were several Coast to Coasters in the Dining area of The Black Bull but because the bar was full , our food took forever to come. 90 minutes in fact. However those who had ,shared their potatoes,chips, water etc with the have-nots and there was so much laughter and banter. It was a real Fawlty Towers scenario.

It was only about 12 miles today and felt like an amble in comparison with other days! 40 minutes from Reeth we passed the ruins of Marrick Priory , which had 17 Benedictine nuns living there at the priory's dissolution in 1540. We then had a bit of uphill to the village of Marrick, the ascent made easier because of the stone slabs known as the Nuns' Steps passing through Steps Wood. Walking through farmland we crossed over the inevitable, innumerable stiles with little gates and began to see as many cows as sheep , obviously passing into dairy farming country. A  muddy mile through Whitecliffe Wood and then Richmond was in sight. It is a busy market town built around the castle. Had tea and a sandwich etc at  a delightful tearoom on the market square. Lots of HOT water in the Band B where the owner gave us a warm welcome .We score each overnight stop by consensus and feel there is a 9/10 coming up!

Thought I would tell you about some of our fellow travellers doing the CtoC. It seems that people are given generic-type nicknames which stick. We are the Golden Oldies, apparently! We enjoy the humour of the Newly Weds with whom we frequently cross paths. They married the day before they left on the CtoC and when they told friends they were planning to walk from Coast to Coast on honeymoon, one asked incredulously " Don't you have a CAR?"
We have mentioned the lone Aussie previously and were glad to walk part of the day with her today. Not only did she sink into a bog, but she has also got lost and walked miles on the motorway being splashed by huge trucks in the pouring rain. An indomitable spirit!
Our actor friend, Man and Dog, returns to London tonight. We came across him and his brother sitting on Wainwright's bench outside Richmond having their picnic, today
Will post some pics of them.

The next 4 days are very long ones. Indeed the last three are all 18-20 milers. We need prayers for blister-free, happy feet.
Thank you for all your interest and support; the blog is being read in Nicaragua, South Africa, Australia not forgetting Epsom and Oxshott. And elsewhere no doubt.

Day 8: Keld to Reeth

We woke to the sound of a waterfall on the Swale just outside the Bunkhouse cottage where we had had a comfortable night and which had  exceeded our expectations! We shared our accommodation with Martin and his chocolate Labrador, who are doing part of the walk together. 
They are known by other walkers as Man and Dog!  He is an actor about to understudy the principal in the Scott borough Boys in London and treated us to a bit of the prologue!
Pardon the silence yesterday but we had neither reception nor WiFi. Wainwright describes Keld as having stayed the same for centuries. It is a tiny , quiet greystone village with most of the action taking place at Park farm/ The Bunkhouse and Keld lodge where we had dinner.

It was a brilliant walk today sometimes along the river and sometimes in the dales above the valley. The sun smiled upon us and the walking was not too taxing. The scenery was idyllic and the vales and dales stunningly beautiful. The only difficulties en route were the countless narrow stone stiles and gaps in the walls, often accompanied by a heavy swinging gate. We had to assist each other to get through at times
We even had time for a coffee stop at the Ghyllfoot Tearoom in Gunnerside before continuing alongside the lovely  Swaledale valley into Reeth where much of All Creatures Great and Small was filmed. The green was heaving with trippers spending a sunny Sunday in the country while a brass band played. The Black Bull is a rather strange pub and we managed to change a  room rich in cigarette fumes for a more pleasant smelling one. I am trying valiantly to write the blog in a bar (only place to get WiFi) where my ears are being assaulted with" it must be true love"at eardrum -bursting volume. So please excuse  any incoherence.  Or incorrect photos which we have to send from phones and then save. All very complicated for those with limited technical ability!

Day 7: Kirkby Stephen to Keld

Departing from our excellent BandB in Kirkby Stephen we started with a long steady ascent up Birkett's Hill after which we were in the lower reaches of the Pennines. Our hosts at The Old Croft House had seen that all our wet gear was dried and ready for us. The bliss of putting on warm boots! It was a shorter day - just over 12 miles- and apart from one shower, we had good weather for walking. About 12 degrees, overcast and a little chilly, but with some patches of blue sky and sunny spells. The walking was sometimes difficult but after the previous day,  we were not fazed by it. There were some very boggy bits and also fast flowing deep streams to ford. Jenny has become particularly adept  at distinguishing between normal mud and bog ; a good person to follow. We had all put on gaiters before leaving so have damp, muddy shoes but fairly dry socks. We were told of a walker taking  the red route via Nine Standards Rigg today, sinking into the bog almost waist deep. Glad we took the lower green route. Quite boggy enough but manageable. The walker in question is an Australian, Maureen, who is walking C to C, alone, as a retirement challenge. We liked her comment: " Do some people do this for FUN?!" She is a very plucky lady.
We  passed the border between Cumbria and Yorkshire and are  now in James Herriot country. It is very different from the Lake District  but beautiful in a different way. In fact Stedman in one of our guidebooks,  encourages  that if "we do succumb to the mires," we can cheer ourselves up with the thought that we will be spending the night in the " gentle pastoral scenery of Swaledale."
And this Bunkhouse has far surpassed our low expectations. Pat and I have comfortable bunk beds, the use of an excellent shower and we all 4 share a well equipped  kitchen/ lounge area where we are currently reading the newspaper or our books while I write this . unfortunately neither reception nor WiFi  but we hope to be able to send this from Keld Lodge later.

Statistics

Jenny walks with a pedometer in her pocket and is a mine of information. So, having done mental arithmetic at dinner, we would like to furnish you with some statistics:

1) we have walked a total of 89 miles thus far
2) we have taken 190,000 steps
3) we have ascended 8000 feet

Should you want to sponsor us, please go to www.justgiving.com/Andrew-Jenny-Jennings  or www.justgiving.com/PandP-Fleming
Please pray for us too as we now enter unknown territory as previously we have walked on only 6 consecutive days  when on holiday, and tomorrow is Day7!

And a big thank to all of you who have given to the GRCT in so many ways. See:  www.grct.org.uk

Day 6:: Shap to Kirkby Stephen

We left Shap with 2 of us not feeling refreshed having slept in a Lake district bed (ie one full of peaks and hollows with a few springs thrown in for good measure! ) The weather was wet,wet,wet and cooler. Indeed it rained steadily all day. We had lunch huddled behind a drystone wall and didnt linger over it! It was a day of endurance more than enjoyment as we pushed one squelchy foot ahead of the other over the moors. Very bleak they were indeed today and Jen and I were reminded of fictional characters associated with windy moorland. We felt Jane Eyre could have collapsed on just such a moor when fleeing from Thornfield! ( no sound of nightingales for your information, Tom, Edward and Sarah)
However there was little conversation or photography  as conditions were not conducive for either. We just wanted to get here and arrived absolutely sodden. Our wet weather gear didn't quite cope. Poor Jen especially found her shoes and jacket not at all waterproof! Our kind hosts have relieved us of all the wet clothes and have hung them in the kitchen. We even wore gaiters and as we were putting them on were passed by the army lads going at a cracking pace. Putting on gaiters and waterproof trousers while trying to balance on wet grass with rain pouring down,is a tricky  operation and there were some minor tumbles.

We found the long walk over Ravenstone Dale moor particularly tedious, boggy and muddy , and discovered only tonight that it is a key site for ancient monuments and stone age villages. But we had our hoods up, visibility was poor and we were focused on getting to Kirkby Stephen so we missed all the interesting archaeology. It was an 8 hour day and we walked 22 miles in all. How wonderful to have hot water and a bath and dinner IN the BandB tonight. Very friendly , warm hospitality and a few good laughs  have revived our much dampened spirits.

Day 5 : Patterdale to Shap

After a comfortable night and good breakfast at Old Water View,  a favourite of Wainwrights, we set off on what many think is the hardest day of the CtoC.  The guidebook says "be prepared to be very tired indeed at the end of this 16 mile stage" and so we are! Jen and I both had shaky,achy knees as we walked into Shap. It was a long climb up to Kidsty Pike and then  what is described as a gnarly descent to Haweswater. Gnarly and nasty it was unless you had long legs to help you climb over rocks on a steep decline. Squash-players lungs no doubt helped  P and A too but for others it was  more difficult! Altogether we had 1300 metres of ascent today, if you add in the undulating trawl along the lakes edge. From Kidsty Pike(2500ft) the splendid views made the hard slog worthwhile. Up there we chatted to 5 army chaps on a team building CtoC  walk. 4of them had served in Afghanistan and said "the harder it gets, the closer you become." I hope the C to C doesn't get harder!
For a while we were delayed by hundreds of sheep being shepherded down the lane ahead of us. It was fascinating watching the farmer's Australian sheepdogs doing their stuff.
Our BandB is in a 300yr old house but what we most appreciated was loads of hot water and a nice bath.
We had fish and chips across the road and will soon go to bed. I am sitting doing this in the bathroom as it is the only place where there is reception.

Day4: Grasmere to Patterdale

Lovely weather for walking and we started with a bit of a climb to the pretty mountain lake of Grisedale Tarn. There we separated and Jen and I did the Grisedale valley route into Patterdale  while Pat and Andrew walked  via St Sunday Crag. We are pleased to say we covered almost exactly the same distance (Jen and Andrew both have pedometers!) Although the men's route had long hard slog and a steep descent. They also travelled rather fast wanting to reach Patterdale before us- which they did. And then a worried Patrick went and asked in the village post office whether 2 women had come in looking for husbands!! He got a strange look... Despite the initial uphill I enjoyed the day and have thought of a new saying " its not the steep hard slog which throws one but the obstacles in one's path. " It was a relief not to have to contend with boulders, mud or bog but a pleasant path. Sadly our BandB had a Closed till 4pm notice and we had arrived early,
But we walked (slowly) down to Ullswater and had a cup of tea. Now we are in the lounge of The Old Water View inn, a place full of walkers  and stories. Fascinating.
One man has walked Striding Edge on his birthday since he was 12. He is now 51years old! Irish!

Day 3: Borrowdale to Grasmere

Great weather today! Neither mist nor rain but quite a lot of mud and bog. We have conclusively proved that our walking boots are waterproof. The walk up Greenup Ridge was fairly steep; a long hard slog. Am thinking Wainwright should have named it the Coast to Coast Climb. But it was more enjoyed than endured today and finishing with tea and cake in Grasmere was a treat, as we had foregone the packed lunch option. It is a shorter day than most but with a lot of up and down. Only 8 miles. Jen and I took the Easedale valley route from Greenup Edge even though the Alfred Wainwright guide seemed to imply it was the wimp's option.  He didn't even provide a map for it saying that the path made navigation unnecessary. That's probably why A and P countenanced us walking on our own! We managed well despite bogs and rocks and constant fording of streams. We felt the ultimate humiliation would be the men reaching Grasmere before us as they had climbed some crags on the way. Jen and I made a slight diversion as a result of coming across a huge reddish bull in a field and deciding to climb over a gate and go another way to the path into Grasmere. We were delighted to meet Pat and Andrew on the path -they had heard us returning from the field of the aforesaid bull! It's lovely to get in earlier to the BandB and have time for a  hot bath and the blog. WiFi is available too.in future silence will indicate exhaustion or lack of WiFi or both.  Again a big thank you to all who support us and the GRCT in so many ways. Thank you for your giving and your prayers.