We started off in good spirits having enjoyed farmhouse hospitality and feeling happy because of the sunshine. The 7 miles to Ingoldby Cross were very pleasant including tracks and quiet back roads through farmland as well as crossing a railway line and a dash across the 4 lanes of the busy A19. We met a dear old farmer fixing a fence who told us his name was"Bill during the week and William on Sundays." He thought we were too young to be retired. We understood why ,when we heard that he was 77 years old and got up at 4am every morning to see to the milking of 160 cows! I include a Photo of Bill Stockdale. We have found the Yorkshire people so kind and friendly. Refreshments are often left out for walkers with an honesty box. Helpful in that there are no village stores in these parts. Indeed a delivery man seeing us walking told us twice that we mustn't miss the flapjack at" t' bank" before we climb up into the Cleveland hills. We didn't miss it and in the photo you can see Andrew enjoying his purchase.
We then had a steep climb through Arncliffe Wood into the Cleveland Hills. This was but the first climb of many. Also at noon the weather changed and rain set in and it was not an easy 12 miles from then on. Disappointing ,as the views from the top of the moors ( which are reputed to have the world's largest expanse of heather) are said to be exceptional. Stedman suggests that this day can be very pleasant or " a miserable, muddy, rain-soaked trudge with all views obscured by a bone-chilling mist." Sadly that was our experience . I found the ascents and descents particularly tricky in the wet ,on slippery stones, and at one stage lost the will to continue but given the alternative of death from hyperthermia in the heather, I managed with Pat's help to soldier on. Jen and Andrew led the party briskly at a good pace, but also considered it to be a tough day. One had no sooner conquered one peak, when another needed to be tackled.
The good news is that our BandB host collected us at Clay Bank Top and we have since perked up having had baths and showers and a good meal in The Black Swan. We have climbed 3000 ft today and have been on the road for about 9 hours, including stops for food and water and map- reading. And tomorrow is another 20 mile day but with fewer inclines and the promise of better weather!
Only 2 days to go to Robin Hoods bay!
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